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Reballing iPhone iPhone

This title is deliberately generic because I want to focus on the ability to back reballing iPhone. This technique is used heavily in the console like XBox and PlayStation 3 due to the inefficient system of heat dissipation which they are provided, and the heat, in fact, is so high that long-term damage to the welds, ensuring no contact with the motherboard . This is the premise.

is the story.

The iPhone 3G that I examined suffered from a network problem. The signal was erratic, and it happened that after a few minutes of operation go to zero, returning moments later. The problem manifested itself after a fall, which caused the rupture glass and a sagging of the support (frame). The phone - not specified by the owner - had already been brought to a service center, and was returned with the same problem (the service center had only changed the motivation is found, returned in the same conditions as before). Then the owner had tried to change several components alone without being able to restore the functionality of the iPhone.

the phone, so you had already suffered two speeches, in some respects a mission imposssible. The first thing I did was check the goodness of the flat antenna, then I looked at the connector, so I watched carefully the logic board to see if there were mechanical problems. All components were intact, and even the electronic ones are in good condition, with no apparent signs of burning or otherwise. Not even an upgrade to the latest version of the firmware did not solve the problem.

At this point I turned my attentions to the only component that I did not trust: the signal amplifier (network). This is the SKY77340, a quad-band amplifier module with high efficiency in 16-pin MCM package, which is accessed by lifting the metal cover (half close to the dock).

I decided to make a reballing, since the problem was intermittent, if the signal was not consistently I would have thought to replace it. I made the logic board settling them on a metal, so it was secure. The chip comes off easily, but you have to use a soldering iron IR (I used that) and wait until the heat gets to the welds. The exposure time is the biggest unknown: I would say that after about 30 seconds the chip comes off, but the technique is more effective (and safe) is to lightly touch the chip while it is under the iron to see if moves. The pressure should be light, because otherwise you may blow up some open space, and remember that the iPhone is multi-layered logic board (should be 7), and impossible to repair.

After removing the integrated, it must be cleaned well to remove residual tin, apply flux (I use are no-clean high quality) and stick well to the template to make the reballing. You must not remove the whole pond, but only what is necessary to achieve uniform distribution on its surface.

applied flux, the template attaches itself to integration. You can now place the balls of tin, which will be about 0.5 mm lateral to the feet, while the ground plane (middle) can also be used to flush the pond with the soldering iron applied: hot air or infrared, no matter in any way melt evenly around the pond on integration.

Here's what the chip from below, with the template applied:

Removed the template, there is the pond is evenly distributed on contacts:

Cleaning the logic board. The logic board must be performed the same tasks: removing the old pond (actually a Pb-free), cleaning with isopropyl alcohol, the application of flux. In this case is not necessary to apply new pond, because what is on integrating fine (unless you removed everything, but it is so unlikely that I consider as a possibility at all).

At this point you may proceed with welding. Placing the integrated over the logic board very patiently, making sure that the remaining space on the right is the same as the left (and also above and below), and after having hit for good you can weld. I recommend an infrared soldering station, which allows a very good welding without very damaging movements within the pieces to be welded, but who wants to can use a Hot air welder (I use it more often for desoldering in a quasi-destructive). During welding, which can last thirty seconds (depending on how big the radiating surface and the temperature of the soldering iron), it must be the integrated sink, and only after "level" should be terminated. If it is well placed on the integrated logic board, differences of a few tenths of a millimeter with respect to pitches will be offset by the driver of the pond, so there's not much to worry about if it moves, in fact, a few tenths of a millimeter .

After cleaning the residual flux, I checked the phone e. .. voila, the defect was gone! :)

Although the operation is successful, however, not recommended in most cases. Before you do this, I suggest you make sure that the problem is not due to mechanical connections or defects of the flat antenna, and just make sure that it is not solved in another way you can decide for this option. The operation is also very risky, and if not done with the right tools can lead to "disintegration" of the logic board.

Also - most important observation of all the others - this post is not meant to be a solution to network problems the iPhone, but a suggestion for those who want to experience on your phone - Losing the warranty and of course making at their own risk and peril - a solution that might work. In this case it worked, but I can not deny that it was a last resort and taken only after having tried everything.

Despite the warnings ... enjoy! :)